Start the count after first or second card is dealt to each box?

Having practised on a CSM game, I've identified my issue. On a busy table and waiting for everyone to receive their second card, I haven't finished counting the 7th box before the dealer is asking the player at box 1 if they want a card or not.

While I can practise to count faster, practise speed reading cards that cancelling each other. I can also practise by simply watching the game from the side.

I'm wondering if it would be better to start the count as each player receives their first card. I've tried doing this and admit find it awkward, as I'm already used to waiting for the second card to be dealt due to the at home practise.

Just wondering how you guys do it.

...where you don't have to look at the cards until all have been dealt. After the first two cards are dealt to the players and the dealer, a quick scan of the table and your brain will calculate the count without any conscious effort on your part. Amazing but true.

In pitch games where the cards are dealt face down, your brain will have to do more work, but it will also be as natural as riding a bike with no thought on your part, other than pointing your eyes in the right direction.

Good luck,
Cobbson

The way I see things is a table will have a maximum of 7 boxes, so your worst case senario in terms of speed is 15 cards, if you can count / amend an existing count for 15 cards, further cards are not dealt as fast. Then all the rest is a case of memorising moves. The true count conversion, the basic strategy changes, the amount to bet, the act.

I was reading some of the BS changes and this one stood out. If the count is +1 then you Double on 11 vs. the dealers ace. If this is correct it seems a bit strange.

Thanks for the responses.

You already know the dealer doesn't have a ten and with an ace there's a decent chance the dealer will bust. In some single deck games doubling 11 vs. Ace is the correct basic strategy play.

While you're still learning to count I would consider switching to an unbalanced system. Then you won't have to worry about how many decks/ cards are left and you won't have to make any true count calculations. You already see how challenging it can be just to keep the count sometimes. Imagine having to take your +13 count and divide by 2.5 decks left to figure out whether or not you should stand on 16 vs. 9, all in a split second because you don't want to slow down the game.

With unbalanced counts all the indices are Running Count so there's no need for any calculations. You'll be able to play/ concentrate for longer periods of time and achieve greater accuracy for the system. If you're using Hi-Lo it would be simple to switch to Red 7 or KO. I know a lot of players continue to be successful calculating true counts- this is just my 2 cents.

I don't think working out the true count from the running count will present a problem. In the example you gave, 2.5 decks remaining, I would double everything RC = 26 / 5 = 5 TC.

I don't. I didn't think it made much difference, maybe it does, I'm playing a no European Hole Card game.

I questioned the " +1 then you Double on 11 vs. the dealers ace" because you have just doubled your bet amount in a positive deck, against a strong dealers card in the hope you get the expected 10 and the dealer doesn't when you know the deck is rich in 10's. It just seems a strange move and will grab attention quicker than splitting 10's.

I've also read over the weekend to deduct the house edge of the game you are playing from the TC. .5=-1, .75=-1.5

ONLY deduct the house edge if you are calculating a bet size, NOT if you're making a playing decision/ strategy departure. The index number essentially tells you which play will win or save you the most money, at that count under those rules. You do adjust the index number if you are truncating, flooring, or rounding and you want to make sure the numbers were generated with your preferred method.

As far as betting goes, the Kelly Criterion basically states to bet an amount of your bankroll equal to your advantage. Let's say every TC up increases your advantage by 0.5% and the house edge is -0.5%. With a +2 TC your advantage has increased 2*0.5% or 1%. Subtract the house edge and you now have a 0.5% advantage on the next hand. If your bankroll at the time was $8000 you would bet $8000*0.5% or $40 on the next hand. That would be betting full Kelly which many consider too risky. It's impossible to calculate the true count, adjust your bankroll in your head, calculate your advantage, and determine the Kelly bet in 2 seconds at the table. What you want to do is figure out your betting strategy at home according to your own risk tolerance. Then you will know before hand that at TC of +2 bet X amount and at +3 bet Y amount etc. Your bankroll shouldn't change enough during a session to make a difference and if it does, you're over-betting.

Kelly betting doesn't call for betting your bank times your advantage. Rather, it calls for betting your bank times your advantage, divided by the variance of the outcome, which is usually around 1.33 for BJ.

In addition, a true point is worth more than just 0.50% in Hi-Lo, when you are using indices. It can be worth anywhere from 0.56% to more than 0.6%, depending on the rules and the count (+3 to +4 is worth over 0.6%, because of insurance, which kicks in). You can find the values using the Chapter 10 charts in BJA3, or one of the commercial simulators, such as CVCX or BJRM.

Don

Good and bad players double down on 11 vs. Ace all the time, it looks like a beginner mistake and shouldn't draw much attention. Only two types of people split tens, idiots and card counters. If the dealer doesn't bust you might lose double your money and much worse all the players at the table will be furious with you. The eye or the pit will see all the commotion and they'll peg you as a counter in no time.