I was curious if anyone knows the current Biloxi/Gulfport double deck conditions. I plan to spread 1-6 red or maybe 1-8 green. I've heard there are a lot of coolers out on the coast. Treasure Bay & both Grands especially. Any info would be appreciated.
Conditions are as reported in CBJN.
but a start. When you get back fill in the blanks for Scott.
I played at the Grand & Magic not to long ago for the first time. I thought both had a decent DD game and had no heat from $25 - $300, won at both. I'm planning another trip around summer, but before deciding on going read on.
For the first time in years I was allowed to play for the dealers on my chips and pull back their chips and re-bet for them. I haven't even tried in years because I was always told any tips had to go down after a bet for the dealers at most places.
Well I was up and the dealer had been good to me so I made a $20 bet for them. The dealers were doubling up and winning along with me, but at normal bets. After awhile I had a $60 bet with the dealers betting $300 on top of mine (AND WINNING...lol). The dealer was asking new players to sit out until the run was over.
They took great care of me, once I had a $120 bet with their $120 on top and hit a Blackjack and the dealer flipped up an ace, I asked for even money and the deal told me not to take it...LOL I told him for $120 I would be happy with even money, again he was telling me no. Finally he looked at his hole card and paid US $360...LOL.
Another time I had $200 and their $200 on top, one player had gone to the restroom and they had placed a lamer to save his spot on hand two. The dealer dealt to his spot anyway and we stopped him as soon as he did, he just told me to wait and keep dealing out the hand. We had a twenty against the dealers 3, he told the pitman what had happened and we were all offered a chance to remove our bets. Of course I played the twenty, but pushed anyway. I have seen this before, but not done this way. I think the dealers bet may have been an influence on the misdeal...DUH!
All of this in front of the pit crew, unbelievable. In one session my $20 tip ended up making $1,950 for the dealers, I had three other good runs that weekend. The dealers were happy to say the least.
I would choose Tunica. Lots of great SD and DD.
In addition to being unable to find hi-lo indices specific to the DD game, I also had a problem with the way indices are calculated, which can best be summed up by the following question:
How often do you get a +2 count out of a 2-deck shoe with exactly 101 cards remaining?
So, I first ran a program to determine the average number of cards out at each (floored) TC from -10 through +10 through -0, =0 and +0 assuming the cut-card placed 47 cards from the bottom and burning the top card (i.e., 55% pen). "Minus zero" means a negative RC with a TC > -1; and "plus zero" means a positive RC with a TC < +1.
Then, for each of the 23 TCs, I reconstructed the average distribution of the remaining cards BEFORE the 3 cards in the player's hand and dealer up card were dealt, then removed these before running every possible player combo and every possible dealer combo and recording and accumulating the win, lose and push probs.
To keep a long story from getting longer, here were my results:
At low magnitude counts (either + or -, but closer to zero), the indices are very close to those for the 4D game.
At high magnitude counts (far from zero; e.g., +8, -9) the indices are very close to those for the SD game.
For example, for 12 vs 2, the SD index is +5 and the 4D index is +3. The average is +4, which is of "medium magnitude," so just split the difference and use "stand at +4." This happens to be the correct index for the average number of cards remaining when the floored TC is +/- 4.
Another example: 16 vs T. The SD index is -1 and the 4D index is 0. The magnitude of these counts is very low; so use the 4D index (i.e., hit at any negative RC, stand at an RC of zero or greater [except on the first hand out of the shoe, of course, when you would use BS]).
The reason for this is the difference in the average number of cards remaining at each TC. Low magnitude counts occur, on average, when there are more cards left and high magnitude counts occur, on average, very close to the cut card.
I hope this is useful to other DD players.
Insurance: +3
16 vs T: =0
15 vs T: +3
TT vs 5: +5
TT vs 6: +4
10 vs T: +3
12 vs 3: +3
12 vs 2: +4
11 vs A: =0
9 vs 2: +1
10 vs A: +3
9 vs 7: +3
16 vs 9: +7 (occurs so infrequently, should probably delete)
13 vs 2: -1
12 vs 4: +1
12 vs 5: -0
12 vs 6: =0
13 vs 3: -2
"In addition to being unable to find hi-lo indices specific to the DD game. I also had a problem with the way indices are calculated ..." OldCootFromVA
The original Illustrious 18 indices for the DD HiLo game can be found on page 195 of BJA2.
Incidently, they differ from your calcs in nine different places, including insurance.
It's nothing to me, but I would be careful attributing an index calc of my own with the heading "Illustrious 18." That heading carries with it a certain amount of credibility -sorta like the Good Housekeeping Seal of Approval. :)
I have seen a post containing Cacarulo's own recast of the Ill 18 for the 6D game and even he renamed his list .. the R18.
I've told you how they were calculated. Please refer to my original post on this subject.
The differences, IMHO, can be attributed to the fact that I used the average number of remaining cards for each (floored) true count, not some artificial number.
I am writing this, not from Virginia, but from Gulfport, MS, in the midst of a VERY successful trip. The indices, the way I have calculated them seem, based on empherical evidence, to be the correct ones. I have absolute confidence in them.
